Nikon D50 Outfit
INTRODUCTION
This is how I exploit and set up a D50.
Want free reside phone support, 24 hours a day, one year a yr? For those who’re within the USA, name (800) NIKON-UX! Nikon additionally has a few of it is personal operator’s tutorials here.
I start off explaining issues so simply my mom can perceive, and get on to deciphering every menu merchandise for advanced users at the bottom.
For extra examples of why you’d want to change these settings and why, additionally see my Maui Picture Expedition page.
BASICS:
CAMERA
Many of those changes require you to be in be within the P, S, A or M exposure modes. You set that on the top dial. The cute preset modes often lock out some adjustments.
I go away most settings at their defaults and use the Program publicity mode. I by no means use the lovable little preset icon modes because I favor to set something special myself.
ISO: I use 200. If the light gets dim and my images would get blurry from slower shutter speeds I increase the ISO to four hundred, 800 or 1,600. I never trouble with in-between settings like 250 or 640. The D50 seems advantageous at ISO 1,600 if you happen to want it. I might much fairly have a slightly grainy however sharp image than a less grainy however blurry one. In contrast to film, the D50 seems nice at high ISOs, so I use them anytime I need them.
I would love to use ISO AUTO, but normally don’t because it also remains energetic in Handbook publicity mode. This firmware defect defeats the purpose of the handbook publicity mode. Utilizing menus to deactivate AUTO ISO for handbook exposure mode takes extra time than AUTO ISO saves. Rats.
White Stability (WB): I would use AUTO and an 81A glass warming filter on the lens. I prefer hotter (oranger) images. I explain white balance on my White Steadiness web page and explain extra about find out how to modify it on the D50 later.
QUAL: I shoot JPG NORMAL. This is called NORM and L on the top LCD, which stands for NORMal JPG compression and Large (3,008 x 2,000) image size.
I’ve made 12 x 18″ prints of the same shot made in BASIC, NORMAL, FINE and raw. I noticed NO distinction! Critically, if you noticed these prints you would not be able to type them out either. I can see only the slightest differences on my monitor enlarged to 100%, which is analogous to a 20 x 30″ print, and my digital LCD monitor has a hundred% MTF pixel-to-pixel, which prints don’t. Don’t worry: for those who want area, shoot BASIC and nobody will see the difference. The one method to tell is by wanting at the file size.
I’ll use BASIC for events and sports when I’m taking pictures many lots of and a whole bunch of images at once. In these cases I am extra concerned with time wasted for the information to switch, copy and archive. Fundamental looks 99% the identical as FINE, even blown up big.
I’ll use FINE on rare occasions where I’m taking pictures only a few pictures and count on to see at them very closely. In these instances the additional measurement is not important if I expect to be spending quite a lot of time analyzing every image.
I avoid FINE JPG because NORM gives me the identical outcomes, with half the file size. If I shot FINE I might run out of room on a card and miss a shot. Lacking a shot is a very visible defect, and I see no defects in NORM. Nikon is aware of what they’re doing. That is why they name it Regular and that’s why I usually use Regular JPG.
OPTIMIZE IMAGE: I want the vivid coloration I get from Fuji’s Velvia 50 movie, so I tweak a D50 to present coloration as vivid as I can get. To do that go to MENU > Shooting Menu (digicam icon) > Optimize Image > Customized > (set Saturation to + and Coloration Mode to IIIa) > – - Finished > OK. Should you forget to pick out “- – Done” and hit OK it will not remember these settings! Details are on the Taking pictures Menu page.
For photos of people I both set the colors again to regular, or cheat and use the Portrait preset mode on the top dial.
FOCUS: AF.
METERING: Matrix.
LENS
Many lenses have no switches or settings. In that case, do not worry.
More superior lenses have focus mode settings, which can be both “M/A – A,” or “A – M” on older lenses.
On older lenses I leave it at “A,” which is Autofocus. “M” is manual focus. Typically you also have to move the change on the digicam, which is a pain.
If the swap says “M/A – A” then I take advantage of M/A. This offers autofocus, and if I seize the focus ring it instantly lets me make manual corrections. As soon as I faucet the shutter button again I get autofocus. This M/A setting, if the lens has it, offers each kinds of focus without ever having to maneuver any switches . It’s the best.
Non-G lenses can have an aperture ring the place the lens is hooked up to the camera. Set this this ring to the largest quantity, usually 22, if not 32 or 16. This number will likely be in orange on autofocus lenses. There usually is a lock to keep this ring set there, since if it comes off that setting you will get an error message from the D50.
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